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Old 02-21-2019, 06:37 AM   #511
tomstin
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I recently took the front trim apart to replace the front apron. While there, I decided to replace the original accessory fan with a 14 inch 2400 CFM that was recommended in the original post.

My question, should I bypass the fan resistor so when it comes on with the AC it's at max power? Or will that somehow screw up the high temp circuit that forces the fan to max power?
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Old 02-22-2019, 03:06 AM   #512
jeffnhiscars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomstin View Post
I recently took the front trim apart to replace the front apron. While there, I decided to replace the original accessory fan with a 14 inch 2400 CFM that was recommended in the original post.

My question, should I bypass the fan resistor so when it comes on with the AC it's at max power? Or will that somehow screw up the high temp circuit that forces the fan to max power?
The high temp circuit will work fine if the AC is off. Just bump your low speed fuse to match the high speed fuse. The wires are ide tidal so it will handle the load.
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:27 AM   #513
doctorx
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just thought i would put my 2 cents in. My 92 GMC Sonoma was no longer cooling. It had r12 in it (funny since i read it was last used in 91). It no longer had any freon left so i used Interdynamics EZ Chill Recharge & Retrofit Kit and it has been great ever since. This has been almost 4 years now. I have not had to add any more since. I also converted from mechanical fan to electric fan 2 years ago.

My 87 325i is not that cool... so considering doing the same. How much is it usually to vacuum out the exiting freon?
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:53 AM   #514
The Dark Side of Will
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There's zero penalty for you as a private citizen to just blow out your entire freon charge into the atmosphere. Be careful, as it will carry oil with it. You'll get a lot of refrigerant oil out with the freon unless you blow it down very slowly.

I say this because HVAC work by a certified shop tends to be grossly overpriced, probably because the required license limits the number of these shops that can perform the service.

When R12 comes in contact with moisture, it becomes corrosive. This is why R12 systems need to be pulled down to a hard vacuum for several hours before being charged. The vacuum causes any moisture in the system to flash off and come out to the materials it's been absorbed into and be removed from the system.

R134 and R12 drop-in replacements are not nearly so sensitive to moisture, so the need to have excellent vacuum prep of the system prior to charging is not as great and basically limited to removing enough gas from the system that the remnant does not displace a noticeable amount of refrigerant.

That doesn't answer your question, but probably useful background info.
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Old 04-30-2019, 12:52 PM   #515
doctorx
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When I did the truck conversion, the ac hadn't worked in years. So there was no freon. Otherwise i would have had it vacuumed. My e30 does cool a little so i am guess there is still freon in there and want to do the responsible thing and not release it to atmosphere on purpose.
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Old 05-11-2019, 03:58 PM   #516
bignslow
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I am in the process of converting mine over. Anyone know what the high side R134a conversion fitting needs to be used? I was under the assumption that all cars were the same but out of the 2 conversion fittings that I got only the low side fits. The high side is different.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:38 AM   #517
S.J.1981
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Thank you for this detailed write up, despite it being a 2012 thread.

My R12 system is empty, and my local Bosch service center is the only one, who is willing to convert to R134a for me. He gave me a quotation between €2.000 and 2.500, which does NOT include a new compressor or condenser fan (if needed).

Since the system is empty, i was interested to see, from the hardware side, what is required, thankfully you covered all of this.

You gave me the confidence to tackle this myself, then let the professionals correctly charge the system.
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