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Old 12-01-2013, 01:12 PM   #16
SoundByte
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Pull a spark plug (or all of them) and look at it. You can learn a lot about your ignition condition by looking at your electrodes.

Also, if your car is actually hunting for idle (revving up to ~1500, spooling down, repeat), check the line from your IACV to your intake boot. I've found cracks in those that cause weird choppy idle conditions. Make sure to give your vacuum lines a very thorough once-over, because a crack in a hose can cause stranger issues than a totally fucked hose.

Also, you say your hose clamps are all tight as fuck, which they really shouldn't be. You just have to go until the clamp starts to crush the rubber. Overtightening hose clamps will just cause premature hose failure down the road...
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:15 PM   #17
Pdxseth
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[QUOTE

I have recently replaced the following
Tps
Cps
Afm
Injector harness
Throttle body gasket
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Fpr
All new relays
Cleaned and checked c101
Tested DME
Blower motor resistor
Evap canister thing behind tps under throttle body
Checked grounds and contacts @ battery

Another issue that may or may not be related is that my #10 and #20 fuse keeps blowing and I have no gauges, power mirrors or blower. Aux fan does work tho...

Any help would be very much appreciated as this is my main transportation and I'm stumped.

Whoever finds the problem gets $1 gifted to their paypal.

Thanks guys.[/QUOTE]

Have you replaced all these with new or used parts?

Your #10 fuse is blowing because the reverse light wires near the shifter get worn out from years of shifting. Pull your shift boot, replace the burnt wires(or tape them up at least) and replace the fuse. I am 99% sure that will fix that issue. Can I haz 1$ now.




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Old 12-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #18
Turf1600
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Your problem will be solved by buying a new car. Please send me $1.
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #19
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ICV test is quick and easy do to. ~20 ohm between center terminals and either outer terminal, and ~40 ohm on the two center terminals. Clean the rotory valve with CRC electronics cleaner, NOT carb cleaner. If any test falls under spec the ICV is bad.

Its also a good idea to test the continuity of the TPS switch points.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:44 PM   #20
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Quick update:

I rechecked all my grounds and installed new battery terminals.
I also replaced both my ICV and my O2 sensor.
The ICV made a good bit of difference in my idle but the stutter at temp is still there in force.

As for the reverse wire, I dont seem to have any kind of wires routing through the shift boot at all. :/

Still on the list is getting it up in the air enough to find the missing reverse wire and reconnecting it as well as doing a full compression test and fooling with the plugs and wires.
I also thought checkimg the pickup on the fuel pump wouldnt hurt.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.


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Old 12-03-2013, 12:57 AM   #21
Pdxseth
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The wires will be under the foam, at the base of the shifter. I was able to fix mine by only pulling the boot. Yours may be different since late model cars have different linkage.


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Old 12-03-2013, 04:57 PM   #22
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have you changed the blue coolant temp sensor yet? It sends the engine temp to the DME and can do some funny things if it is sending wrong signals.

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Old 12-03-2013, 10:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdxseth View Post
The wires will be under the foam, at the base of the shifter. I was able to fix mine by only pulling the boot. Yours may be different since late model cars have different linkage.


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Yeah, I looked all around for it and all I can find is the wiring for my windows and breaker.

I think this may be related to the previous owners underglow fetish. I will probably find it spliced or cut and capped eventually.





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have you changed the blue coolant temp sensor yet? It sends the engine temp to the DME and can do some funny things if it is sending wrong signals.
I have yet to replace this. I do have it on my list though. As well as an oil pressure switch and a valve adjustment.

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Old 12-04-2013, 09:37 AM   #24
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Try swapping in a different ignition coil.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:27 AM   #25
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I had somewhat similar symptoms as you describe, ended up being the injector connector under the intake mani. I cleaned out the pins but the wires below the connector ended up being corroded and broken. Might be worth pulling the boot/cutting it off to make sure all of the wires are alive and well under the connector.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russc View Post
Try swapping in a different ignition coil.
I tried switching the coil and this made no difference at all. :/





Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixcinater View Post
I had somewhat similar symptoms as you describe, ended up being the injector connector under the intake mani. I cleaned out the pins but the wires below the connector ended up being corroded and broken. Might be worth pulling the boot/cutting it off to make sure all of the wires are alive and well under the connector.
I actually had a huge problem with this connection earlier in the cars life.
I ended up just cutting this out and hard wiring the connection together since it isnt to hard to pull the injector harness out through the space under the intake.
Every wire was spliced, soldered and wrapped to ensure a good connection.


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Old 12-04-2013, 02:45 PM   #27
EN318isPDX
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Just sell the SETA block and go 24v OP

Quote:
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have you changed the blue coolant temp sensor yet? It sends the engine temp to the DME and can do some funny things if it is sending wrong signals.

This. Fuel injection cannot work properly without this. Its about 5 dollars. I replace it on all cars just because its so damn cheap yet very important..
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:34 PM   #28
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Just sell the SETA block and go 24v OP



This. Fuel injection cannot work properly without this. Its about 5 dollars. I replace it on all cars just because its so damn cheap yet very important..
So arent there two of them?
I looked at one from napa and the new one they tried to give me had a grey connector. Same thing?

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Old 12-04-2013, 04:18 PM   #29
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What brand distributor cap did you get? What brand rotor?
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:45 PM   #30
EN318isPDX
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So arent there two of them?
I looked at one from napa and the new one they tried to give me had a grey connector. Same thing?

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No, one drives the gauge and the other talks to the ECU..

IIRC sender = ECU and sensor = gauge
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