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Old 04-03-2018, 12:04 PM   #31
jawkDNA
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the front grills are off in that photo because I removed the eyebrows. I will mail them to anyone, for free, if they write and post a 5-paragraph essay explaining how exactly they've managed to go so wrong in life as to appreciate e30 eyebrows.
This killed me.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:04 PM   #32
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Definitely following this one.

As for the rear brakes/rotor's you've mentioned in that quite long list.
They are specific for the ix touring. The rear rotors are available from BMW again although at 125 each they aren't cheap.

Also, if you need new trim for the interior. You should have a look on ebay-kleinanzeigen.
I'm going to toss some calipers on mine first. 125 euro is a little rough for a rotor.

And I've already mobilized some german friends to negotiate a full trunk trim kit delivery


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great lookin' project. I've never seen the C101 oriented sideways like it is in one of the pictures. Looks fun. The transfer case mount is a bloody mess. I wonder why they thought it was proper.
Not sure what you're looking at, I don't think my C101 is in any of them..


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This killed me.
am totally serious about it FWIW
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:17 PM   #33
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on to the car itself, looks like there's a new starter -

This is the picture i was talking about, but I realized this is a picture from below, which would put the C101 in the same orientation as mine.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:19 PM   #34
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ah. That's the O2 sensor connector.

edit: wait, no it's not. who knows! been some time since I looked at an M20.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:40 PM   #35
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am totally serious about it FWIW
MLA or APA format?

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ah. That's the O2 sensor connector.

edit: wait, no it's not. who knows! been some time since I looked at an M20.
Thats the injector harness connector
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Old 04-07-2018, 08:07 PM   #36
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Parts came in, and I had some time to get this stupid thing running again.

Old pump came out molested and with no filter. Of course. If I dig into something on this car that ends up having been done well and without bodgery, I don’t think I would trust my eyes.



Walbro assembled, plug soldered onto carrier.



With the Walbro 255 in, m20 has fire in the hole and everything is great again. Low vacuum though, so next up is going through the various seals and boots and fittings. I’ll toss a valve adjustment in there while I’m at it - it definitely needs it.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:13 AM   #37
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Great news that it fired up! What's the condition of the fuel tank? After filling mine completely this weekend, it turns out I have a leak. Already got a new one for 200€ incl shipping.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:42 AM   #38
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Great news that it fired up! What's the condition of the fuel tank? After filling mine completely this weekend, it turns out I have a leak. Already got a new one for 200 incl shipping.
I was relieved as well. The tank itself is fine. A little bit of sediment, but nothing terrible.

We can get tanks from Amazon stateside - https://www.amazon.com/Wiggleys-1983...70_&dpSrc=srch

They are kind of ridiculously cheap, and the quality seems to be on par. I have one getting ready to go into my 323i. Not sure if you have a similar option.

Did you see my comment about the 6 bolt rear driveshaft? Turns out I have one as well, and it's toast.
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:44 PM   #39
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I was relieved as well. The tank itself is fine. A little bit of sediment, but nothing terrible.

We can get tanks from Amazon stateside - https://www.amazon.com/Wiggleys-1983...70_&dpSrc=srch

They are kind of ridiculously cheap, and the quality seems to be on par. I have one getting ready to go into my 323i. Not sure if you have a similar option.

Did you see my comment about the 6 bolt rear driveshaft? Turns out I have one as well, and it's toast.
Wow, that's pretty cheap! Although the one you listed is for an early E30.
All the aftermarket tanks seem to look the same, every single one of them is grey and is missing the drainplug.
And yes, I bought one early this week and today it arrived. Quality seems to be good. At first thought it seems a bit heavier than the original one..? Or maybe it just has been too long since I had mine out from under my Touring.
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Old 04-11-2018, 01:08 PM   #40
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I'm embarrassed to say what I paid for my OEM tank.
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Old 04-11-2018, 01:59 PM   #41
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I'm embarrassed to say what I paid for my OEM tank.
I'm embarrassed to count up how much I've just dumped on absolutely basic maintenance stuff for the touring.


Project update:
- replaced the valve cover vent hose and ICV-to-TB hose, got mildly better idle vacuum but it's still 5psi off of where it needs to be.
- took the exhaust and front driveshaft off last night in preparation to pull the driveline
- front driveshaft splines are ok
- front driveshaft grease keeper-iner is cracked to fuck. thankfully new ones are cheap.
- there was no centering pin, at all
- I had like 1.5cm of spline engagement into the TC. wtf!
- I am missing all the exhaust heatshields. are they the same ix to non-ix?
- the TC upper bolts look like a huge pain in the ass to undo.
- absolutely everything underneath has aftermarket undercoating on it, and is rusting underneath the undercoating, including stuff like brake lines. I might need to do a full brakeline replacement, which I'm not super excited about. I've done a full car before, and brake fluid is one of my least favorite fluids to be covered head to toe in.
- ix tourings got bespoke CV rear driveshafts. mine has a torn CV boot and they don't even list the part #s for those. ugh.

Ordered parts:
- x5 fat giubo and centering ring
- brake rebuild parts
- SS brake lines
- z3 lever
- new TOB
- new TC mount bushing

Sorry for the lack of photos. It was late and dark and I had maybe an hour and a half to do all this, so I was in a rush.
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:38 AM   #42
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- I am missing all the exhaust heatshields. are they the same ix to non-ix?
As far as I know it's ix specific. especially the long aluminium heatshield that sits just after the T-case, you might be able to fit the regular triangular heatshield that connects to it.

They are still available at BMW though, I'm also getting a new triangular one since mine is rusted pretty bad, I already replaced a section of it by welding some new metal in but it is already rusting again..

Triangular heatshield: 16111179644
Brackets for triangular piece: 16111177346 & 16111177347
Screws for the triangular piece: (4x) 07119916966
Sheet metal nuts, these sit on the aluminium cover: (2x) 07129901672
The brackets mount on to the fuel tank, these are hold on by regular M6x16 bolts, washers and nuts.

Aluminum heatshield: 51481933794
Bolts: (6x) 07119915066
plate nut: (2x) 07146949380

Although the covers are some what expensive, around 130 new.

OR, you could get these for 20 lol
These guys are located in Denmark, I've ordered some parts form them before.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/BMW-E30-325i...-/182587368995

Quote:
Originally Posted by kronus View Post
- the TC upper bolts look like a huge pain in the ass to undo.
They are a pain to undo. Before removing the crossmember for the T-Case, support ti with a jack. After removal you just lower the jack until the engine rests against the firewall.
With an assortment of swivel and U joints I was able to break them loose and back them out a quarter of a turn each time after repositioning the arrangements of attachments each time. It's a bitch lol.

Last edited by D.Martijn; 04-15-2018 at 02:49 AM.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:21 AM   #43
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If the T-case is in the same orientation as a regular ix, attack the upper TC bolts from the top through the shifter hole in the cab after you remove the shifter assembly. It is the easiest route in my opinion. And after you have done it once then it isn't nearly as bad the next time.
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:31 PM   #44
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If the T-case is in the same orientation as a regular ix, attack the upper TC bolts from the top through the shifter hole in the cab after you remove the shifter assembly. It is the easiest route in my opinion. And after you have done it once then it isn't nearly as bad the next time.
When I removed my uncles T-case I also had a few people tell me to go at the bolts from inside the car but... How do you remove the shifter assembly though..? I couldn't figure it out because.. wel the transfer case was in the way haha!
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Old 04-15-2018, 08:13 PM   #45
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When I removed my uncles T-case I also had a few people tell me to go at the bolts from inside the car but... How do you remove the shifter assembly though..? I couldn't figure it out because.. wel the transfer case was in the way haha!
Remove the bitch clip, disconnect the shift rod and rear shift bushing.
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