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Old 04-12-2019, 01:14 PM   #121
Digitalwave
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On TunerStudio dashboard you can add a gauge that shows you sync loss count. That's the easiest way to see if you are losing sync, besides the tooth logger. It should basically have no sync loss except 1 count every time you "burn" a change to the ECU while it's on. IE if you have the car on for 10 minutes and you burn changes 3 times to the ECU, it should show a sync loss of 3. Anything more and you have an issue.
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Old 04-12-2019, 02:26 PM   #122
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Iíve found a fuel pressure gauge or sensor is the best place to start there. Donít swap pumps until youíve verified itís the culprit.


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Old 04-12-2019, 02:26 PM   #123
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On TunerStudio dashboard you can add a gauge that shows you sync loss count. That's the easiest way to see if you are losing sync, besides the tooth logger. It should basically have no sync loss except 1 count every time you "burn" a change to the ECU while it's on. IE if you have the car on for 10 minutes and you burn changes 3 times to the ECU, it should show a sync loss of 3. Anything more and you have an issue.


Gonna try this out right now. Thanks


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Old 04-12-2019, 02:34 PM   #124
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Iíve found a fuel pressure gauge or sensor is the best place to start there. Donít swap pumps until youíve verified itís the culprit.


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I was planning on putting the bigger pump anyway so. It's already done now. Lol

Also doesn't appear to be any sync loss


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Old 04-12-2019, 03:43 PM   #125
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I was planning on putting the bigger pump anyway so. It's already done now. Lol

Also doesn't appear to be any sync loss


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Cool. How is the power above 5000 now. Injector Duty cycle?


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Old 04-12-2019, 03:50 PM   #126
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Cool. How is the power above 5000 now. Injector Duty cycle?


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It pulls hard up to 5000 power is great. After that she is still floundering doesn't fall on its face but it's still missing. Sounds like a wet distributor cap so I've got a new cap and rotor I'm about to through in there too. Edwardo estimated 170ish to the wheels once the fuel supply is there. I'm doing the injector swap now.




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Old 04-12-2019, 03:51 PM   #127
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Megasquirt Timing and Fuel Map Thread

I don't know how to check duty cycle

Gonna have to figure out how to tell ms I changed injectors too. So there is that lol.


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Old 04-12-2019, 03:52 PM   #128
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I don't know how to check duty cycle

Gonna have to figure out how to tell ms I changed injectors too. So there is that lol.


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In megalog!


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Old 04-12-2019, 03:53 PM   #129
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Lol I did a log I'll have to look at it and see. I'm learning I'm learning


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Old 04-12-2019, 03:54 PM   #130
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Lol I did a log I'll have to look at it and see. I'm learning I'm learning


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Also you can put it on a TS dashboard. Hard to use while driving though.


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Old 04-12-2019, 03:56 PM   #131
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Also you can put it on a TS dashboard. Hard to use while driving though.


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I'll try that too. This thing is gonna be a beast once I figure out if I'm going super charged or turbo. I'm still on the fence on that too


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Old 04-12-2019, 04:45 PM   #132
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What needs to be changed for these injectors?


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Old 04-12-2019, 05:12 PM   #133
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Megasquirt Timing and Fuel Map Thread

Look at this why is my timing going crazy here? What would cause that?

What is the max spark advance for these m20b25


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Old 04-12-2019, 07:46 PM   #134
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you are hitting the rev limiter. If you look below it says SPK: revlim retard(deg): 2.7. It takes 2.7 degs from your base to get 34.3.

It's a 2 valve head with a little quench... 36-38-40 is probably in the realm of "correct" at WOT after 3k. To know for sure, you need a dyno, of course.



You need to change your required fuel in your general settings after changing injector flow rate. You also should change dead time if you have it available. It's not the end of the world if you don't have it. It's not as important as some people make it out to be
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Old 04-12-2019, 08:04 PM   #135
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you are hitting the rev limiter. If you look below it says SPK: revlim retard(deg): 2.7. It takes 2.7 degs from your base to get 34.3.

It's a 2 valve head with a little quench... 36-38-40 is probably in the realm of "correct" at WOT after 3k. To know for sure, you need a dyno, of course.



You need to change your required fuel in your general settings after changing injector flow rate. You also should change dead time if you have it available. It's not the end of the world if you don't have it. It's not as important as some people make it out to be


The Rev limiter is set to 6300 though not 5750. I do have dead time available although I don't know what that is or how it should be manipulated only thing I could find on the injectors is they are 23.8 gph. I did reset that and I believe my problem with the cutting out to be the gap on the cps I'm gonna reset it tomorrow morning and I'll report back. If it clears up its back to the dyno to put down closer to 200!


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