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Old 03-16-2011, 07:43 PM   #1
Bishop
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Putting Together A Weekend Racer?

Thanks go to JParkr for making this a sticky!
First and foremost, SEAT TIME is the best bang for your buck. It won't really matter if you bolt everything listed below onto a car that you have no experience in, let alone no experience on track at all. Becoming a good driver requires seat time and an open mind with a willingness to learn. So LEARN at every opportunity that presents itself! Also, lose some weight. Hit the treadmill, get on your bike, go run, eat less and healthier... Take care of yourself and you'll not only feel better in many aspects of your life, but you won't get winded after a half-hour session on track.

Figured I'd start at the bottom of the car and work my way up, since that seems to be where most of the wear items are....

- Control Arm Bushings (CABs) x2
= http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...shing-p90.aspx
* Powerflex Control Arm Bushings - $65 for centered, $75 for offset
Available from Bimmerworld pre-installed in new CA's or just bushings

- Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTABs) x4 = http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...hing-p733.aspx
* Powerflex Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - $140 for the 80A purple durability which is 25% stiffer than stock, or $160 for the 95A black bushings which are more oriented toward more track specific car, available from Bimmerworld

- Subframe Bushings x2 = http://store.bimmerworld.com/categor...ushing&x=0&y=0
* Powerflex Rear Subframe Mount Kit, Purple 80A stiffness for $105, Black 95A for $120, and aluminum mounting kit for $300. All available from Bimmerworld

- Differential Bushing x1 = http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...ount-p710.aspx
* Powerflex Differential Bushing kit, Yellow 70A for $60 and the Black 95A for $60, available from Bimmerworld

- Transmission Mounts x2
* I would suggest supporting a local member here, Silence, who creates and sells a quality transmission and motor mount. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=165543 . $30 shipped for a set of transmission mounts, or $70 shipped for the kit.

- Motor Mounts x2
* See above! Silence's motor and trans mounts. $45 for the motor mounts, shipped, or $70 for motor and trans shipped.

- Swaybar Kit = http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...ges-p1408.aspx
* Bimmerworld created an E30 sway bar kit that seems like a quality kit. You can buy just a front or rear bar, or you can buy the whole kit which includes front and rear bars, spherical end links, mounts w/ powerflex bushings and weld-in reinforcements. Everything you need to solidify the swaybar situation on your car. $450 for the kit, less if you opt for less options.

- Tie Rods w/ new ball joints x2
* Lets stick with OEM tie rods. It was suggested that you wrap the ball joints in a heat reflective material to protect from brake heat.

- Hubs x4
* Would suggest OEM replacements

- Wheel Bearings x4
* Would suggest OEM replacements

- Guibo
* Would suggest OEM replacements

- Center Support Bearing (CSB)
* Would suggest OEM replacements

- Upper Strut Mounts
* Any suggestions?

- Control Arms w/ new ball joints x2
* OEM replacements available from Bimmerworld w/ various options. You can have Powerflex bushings pre-installed in new housings, Treehouse Racing "eyeball" mounts installed, etc... Check Bimmerworld for pricing / combos

- Wheel studs x16 = http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...age-p1350.aspx
* Bimmerworld Wheel Stud Package includes 75mm bulletnose studs and accompanying lug nuts. Available with chrome or anodized black lugs, 4 and 5 lug configurations. Pricing from $85 - $115 depending on # of studs needed and type of lugs.

- Brake Rotors x4
* OEM replacement / blanks seem to be most popular

- Track Pads x4 corners
* Hawk's HT-10s are popular as are the new PFC 06 compounds.

- Stainless Brake Lines x6 = http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...its-p1529.aspx
* Bimmerworld V2 Stainless Brake Line Kit available for $120. 6 lines, 2 front, 2 rear outer and 2 rear inner lines.

- Brake Fluid
* ATE Super Blue / Gold are popular, as are the Motul offerings.

- Motor Oil
* Preference of owner

- Motor Oil Filter
* OEM is fine

- Transmission Fluid
* Not sure what's available

- Differential Fluid
* Not sure what's available

- Fuel Filter
* OEM replacement

- Fuel Pump
* OEM replacement is probably fine for most applications, though there is a Walbro 255lph option. If I remember correctly they run ~$100 for the pump and install kit.

- Exhaust
* Could leave it stock, add a muffler (magnaflow, flowmaster, etc.) or do a full exhaust, custom or pre-made depending on $$ and what motor you're running. Purchase new gaskets and exhaust mounts

- Brake ducting and remove dust shields = http://store.bimmerworld.com/brake-c...parts-p45.aspx
* Bimmerworld has put together a variety of options including ducts, flanges, and hosing (apparently it's some special hose). You can purchase the full kit or you can piece it together from Bimmerworld and buy your own hose. Or piece together and custom build your own, but it seems like removal of the heat / dust shields are highly recommended as well as running some form of cooling / ducting for the brake system.

- Reinforcements = http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-13...e-for-e30.aspx
* Turner Motorsports offers the best option here. Their reinforcement package includes front subframe, rear swaybar / swaybar tabs, and rear lower sway bar tabs. Requires welding but eliminates the typical weak points in the e30 chassis.

- Coolant
* It has been suggested running water + water wetter.

- Power Steering fluid
* Not sure what's available

- Short shift kit and replace all the bushings
= http://www.blunttech.com/?page_id=310
* Blunt on r3v offers a shift kit package for $180 which comes with all you need to replace the bushings / mounting in the shifter assembly as well as a shorter lever and a ZHP knob

- Remove A/C if it's not working

- Roll Bar or full cage depending on your preference and what you can afford

- Fixed back bucket
* Many options from Sparco, Recaro, Corbeau. Fixed back seats are suggested

- Harness
* Many options again.

- Remove rubber pedal covers and cover pedals with grip tape as suggested by a r3v member

- Steering wheel and a quick release hub
* Many options here as well. I haven't researched any of the options at this time.

- Strip out sunroof and tac weld skin in place, silicone it shut

- E36 Steering Rack
* Heavily debated topic with tons of misinformation, but I think wh33lhop put together a very informative thread.
* Wh33lhop's Thread : http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=172261

- S5X
* There's plenty of options for adding more power. You can stay with the M20 M42, or swap in an M30, M5X, S5X, throw a turbo at any of the above, or supercharge em. The most popular is a 24v swap and there's PLENTY of information and threads floating around to get everything you need.

- Coilovers
* AST or Ground-Control seem to be the most popular / readily available options. You don't need coilovers, but if you can, why not?

- Wheels and Tires
* There are several options available here as well. Personally I run 15x8 TR C1 wheels w/ 225/45-15 Hankook RS-3s and love them. Kosei is popular as are the D-Force wheels. It's not unwise to opt for metal valve stems that will withstand more abuse than regular rubber valve stems.

- Chip / Tuning
* For a stock motor as well as some swaps, Mark D offers chips and he is a very popular option. With various swaps, I know you can get chips from TRM or go the DIY route with Megasquirt or various other options

------------------------------------

** Don't forget general maint. on whatever you're running, such as timing belts / chains, power steering and water pumps, acce. belts, etc. etc. etc. Make sure everything is connected / secured properly and there's no half-assed install that will possibly cause problems at the track.
------------------------------------
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"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

Last edited by Bishop; 03-27-2011 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:45 PM   #2
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Do you plan to race it seriously at scca events and such or just the occasional open track day?
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:56 PM   #3
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Well, the purpose of my car's going to be lapping days, school, and NASA / SCCA Time Trials. No club racing, yet. And this isn't necessarily specific to my car, just maybe prepping a car that would have similar purposes as my car since I think time trials is about as far as most people can afford to participate in.
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"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:00 PM   #4
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don't need s50.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:57 PM   #5
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Haha pretty much what I'm doing. Make a toy I can drive to the track, uncomfortable as it may be.

Of the things you've listed, like sway bar mount bushings, look into upgrades, like beefy sway bars and beefy mount brackets. Might as well while you're there, if you can justify the price. Another example is the Z3 diff back, which has more fins for better cooling.

That said, no need to do everything at once.

You could also ditch the engine fan and swap in an electric fan, or if you do remove the A/C you can convert the A/C condenser fan using M3 evo 3 brackets to mount it.

As well, I believe the Z3 1.9 steering rack is the quickest BMW rack you can put into the e30. Faster than any e36 rack. But it has a lot to do with preference as well. There's also a few aftermarket options that are just as fast.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:42 AM   #6
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If you are going to turn the car into a "weekend racer" you should consider building the car towards a recognized class, even if you never intend to race it. The advantages of doing that include a better resale value if you decide to get rid of it, the ability to directly compare lap times with racers, and the availability of "coaches" from the race community. On the west coast, Pro3 is probably the largest group with Spec E30 as the next largest group. For the rest of the country Spec E30 has the largest population.

Your list looks pretty good, though I'd say to go with a full cage rather than a roll bar, keep the stock rack, and consider the Spec E30 suspension rather than coil overs. I'd also keep the stock engine.
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:56 AM   #7
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change coolant to water+water wetter, add ignition components, electrical cutoff, oil pressure gauge + baffle/scraper
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:10 AM   #8
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I just did all of that minus the motor swap in the last 2 months on jackstands (so tiring..)

also I just ditched the power steering and the AC completely..

As J Levie suggested I built the car to Spec e30 specs, minus the cage (which I dont have the money for now). Im going to DE it for a few months then race it after the cage goes in. Can't wait!

best of luck with your build and good idea for a post.. Im sure it will be helpful for many who are looking to track their e30..
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:53 PM   #9
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you forgot the Turner J-stock combo. I would think adding to additional information would be the
- repacking of grease in fresh wheel bearings
- wrapping your tie rod and ball joints in heat reflective material to help combat the heat put off by the brakes

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Old 03-18-2011, 05:42 AM   #10
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buy an already built spec car - there are a good number out there for sale.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:26 AM   #11
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Just some perspective for all the posters:

there is NO SpecE30 presence out here. None. The only wheel to wheel racing out here is the occasional SpecM3, Smash Miata, and sometimes GTS-* classes. No BMWCCA. No real NASA. We have a strong Time Trials program, but there is no competitive racing out here that an E30 has any chance in. There's a higher chance of being runover by a rampaging elephant than of having a SpecE30 race or beyond 2 SE30 cars out here. There are two other SE30 cars locally that I know of, but the owners have to trailer the cars for hundreds of miles to get to a race with half decent participation. Building for SpecE30 out here is like expecting a dead horse to come back from the dead.

Also, Bishop already has GC coilovers, so ditching them and going to SE30 suspension or J-stock would be pretty dumb.

Ben, I'd do your list pretty much as you wrote it.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlevie View Post
If you are going to turn the car into a "weekend racer" you should consider building the car towards a recognized class, even if you never intend to race it.
This. I was at our regional scca meeting this past week and it was brought up how people build a car then they bring them out and ask what class they belong to and the whole mess of how the car has some parts that makes it illegal for some classes etc and oftenly it ends up in a class where its non competitive. That is the completely ass backwards way to build a car. You build a car to a class to take advantage of all the rules and none that are not allowed.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Click View Post
This. I was at our regional scca meeting this past week and it was brought up how people build a car then they bring them out and ask what class they belong to and the whole mess of how the car has some parts that makes it illegal for some classes etc and oftenly it ends up in a class where its non competitive. That is the completely ass backwards way to build a car. You build a car to a class to take advantage of all the rules and none that are not allowed.
That's the thing. Around here there is GTS-*, which is purely power/weight regulated, and Time Trials, which is again, mostly power/weight with some other restrictions.

Autocross here is very competitive, and mostly for shits and giggles.
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:36 PM   #14
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I don't think there can really be a definitive list. Let's face it some peoples weekend track day warrior has more money into it than some race cars, and vica versa.

It all comes down to budget, or the willingness to spend. Case in point my rroad car/ play thing. Has AP 5000+ brakes, tubular front suspension, 240 R Comps all around, and it's it's lowered, with bump steer spacers, roll centre... etc.

Now to some that's hard core race car stuff, but for me it works perfectly on my road car. Although I must add that much of it was developed for my widebody race car.
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:03 PM   #15
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K, this thread isn't meant to be "help me put MY car together." This was meant, in general, what you guys think should be and would benefit from being replaced on a weekend warrior, time trials, DD, combo kind of car. You can build it to a spec class, you can pick and choose from what you want... BUT, the goal of the thread was to list wear items or what would benefit from an upgrade for track use, name some favorite brands, and where you can possibly pick them up. If you feel something is unnecessary on the car, then post that. If I'm missing something, post that. Yes, I have GC's, but not sure for how much longer. Again.... NOT SPECIFIC TO MY CAR.... If someone JUST wants to do bushings, great, here in this thread is a list of the bushings on the e30, and hopefully people will have suggestions / preferences of what type / brand and where to get em... etc.... Does that make a little more sense, or am I going to have to make a similar post later on in the thread? Not trying to be a dick lol... and yeah, there's no SE30 presence out here, so for ME... I'd probably be building for a TT car, no interest in wheel to wheel in the e30.... So a roll bar and coilovers would be checked off on MY list for MY car... YMMV
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"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"
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