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Old 03-21-2019, 10:07 AM   #61
jeenyus
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I have only a little bit of input to add. glnr12 is right, it shouldn't be bouncing around. Mine used to do that, till i changed my timing belt, bled the system and then it never bounced. I then replaced a hose that led off the throttle body to the block and ever since the gauge has been bouncing. my only idea is that there are pockets of air that are causing the gauge to bounce like it is due to the air being hotter than the coolant. So i've been bleeding the system for like two weeks now having the front up on ramps to see if i can get it all to make it's way out of the system.

I guess to summarize, i think the bouncing is due to pockets of air in the cooling system.
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Old 03-21-2019, 02:31 PM   #62
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I have only a little bit of input to add. glnr12 is right, it shouldn't be bouncing around. Mine used to do that, till i changed my timing belt, bled the system and then it never bounced. I then replaced a hose that led off the throttle body to the block and ever since the gauge has been bouncing. my only idea is that there are pockets of air that are causing the gauge to bounce like it is due to the air being hotter than the coolant. So i've been bleeding the system for like two weeks now having the front up on ramps to see if i can get it all to make it's way out of the system.

I guess to summarize, i think the bouncing is due to pockets of air in the cooling system.
I don't know I think I've bled it pretty well. When I open the thermostat screw it's just a steady stream coming out. The expansion tank stays at the normal level after it cools down. Even the thermostat opens while I drive it because the lower radiator hose gets warm.

I ordered new ground cables but I'm going to try unlooping the lines because I think that will solve my issues.
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:53 PM   #63
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I've always hated bleeding BMW engines, from the M42 to the M20 and now the M30.

I got the Frank M M30 guide thanks to wworm's suggestion. It confirmed my previous post about the cooling hoses. They should have been plugged rather than looped when doing a heater delete. I fixed that and bled it again, this time raising the expansion tank as I filled. It seemed to bleed just fine but when I drive it stays at about the 3rd line with the fan on and looks like it rises a bit when I drive it hard. When stopped at a light it lowers a bit. I'm starting to think something is up with the thermostat. It is a new 80c unit. Should I use a 71c unit since I have no heater core? I also couldn't find a gasket for the thermostat, just the o-ring. It leaked originally so I used gasket maker for the first time smh.

After bleeding the cooling I start the engine and let it idle with all the caps and bleed screw closed. The lower hose stays cold until the temp gauge almost reaches the 3/4 mark and then it drops to almost 1/2 and then thats when the lower hose gets hot. After letting it sit a bit more it starts getting closer to the 3/4 line again but doesn't overheat. This is all with the fan off. Is this as good as it gets without a heater core? I'm considering getting my cluster refurbished, new thermostat housing, 71c thermostat, new coolant hoses, and maybe an aftermarket gauge as well but I'm trying to save cash since I have Coachella coming up next month
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Old 03-24-2019, 08:17 PM   #64
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I just opened up the the extra 19mm bolt on the thermostat housing and then the bleed screw while the engine was barely warm. A hiss of air came out and the coolant almost came out of the 19mm bolt. It's level almost to the top so I'm hoping that was the last bit of air. I'll try the car out in the morning, too loud to let it idle for 20 minutes in my backyard right now.

Regardless, I ordered a 71c thermostat/gasket and proper coolant hoses to remove the current hose extender and plug. I also hit up e30_dad for a cluster quote.
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Old 03-25-2019, 09:35 AM   #65
wworm
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new thermostat is probably a good idea. glad to hear things are working out bit by bit
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Old 03-25-2019, 06:48 PM   #66
iso_hi
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new thermostat is probably a good idea. glad to hear things are working out bit by bit
Yeah at this point I'm certain it's the thermostat. It takes way too long to open. The temp gauge was close to the 3/4 line and the lower hose side was cold and the other side burned me when I touched it. It opened shortly after but it was like minute 15 by that time.

The car had a 71c tstat when I pulled the head and I replaced it for a 80c. I have another 71c on the way. Let's hope this helps because I'm pretty certain I've been bleeding it right the entire time. Hopefully this helps someone looking to do a M30 swap without a heater. Even though I might be the only one.
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Old 03-27-2019, 04:56 PM   #67
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Color combo is fantastic and really loved that daytime photo with the popout wimdows open. Good luck with the thermostat.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:25 PM   #68
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So my dumbass installed the thermostat backwards. I'm still going to install the new 71c and drill a small hole at the top.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:36 PM   #69
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I think 71 is too cool. Your stock engine calls for an 89 so why not stick with an 80. Throw it in a boiling pot of water and make sure it opens up and reinstall it.

The temperature of the thermostat doesn't need changed because you are not using a heater. Think about it, the thermostat opens at that specific temperature regardless if there is a heater. A heater is just another part of the cooling system eliminating it has no affect on the operation of the thermostat.

Good luck regardless of your decision.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:56 AM   #70
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71 will be far too cold, you'll probably find it runs like shit and will fill the intake with carbon.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:50 AM   #71
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I already torqued down the 71c tstat. You guys are probably right about it being too cool. The stock was 80c. I'm going to try it out for a day at least since it's in there. Besides I'm pretty much a pro at draining the coolant without spilling by now.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:46 PM   #72
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Ok this is the last thermostat-related update.

I drilled a tiny hole into the new 71c thermostat and installed it properly this time. I can't believe I put it in backwards before.



I borrowed an infrared thermometer from work to get actual data rather than rely on my maybe broken gauge.

These first readings were taken 10 minutes into the engine idling. It's about the moment when the thermostat opens. The in-car gauge was at about 1/4 or so.






And these are at minute 15, in-car gauge was at half. The 16" Spal fan has been off the entire time.







I'd imagine it would be a little warmer when I actually drive it. Overall still a lot better than before. It would have been at the 3/4 line or past by now.


And back to fun stuff.



I bought a fender roller for $80 rather than pay someone $40. My front tires rub when I'm turning on an incline so I had to roll a small area of the fender. The drivers side was already a bit messed up. If anyone in the North Bay wants to borrow it for cheap let me know.
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:46 AM   #73
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Bring the fan on earlier. Should be set a tiny bit higher than the thermostat open temp. If you drive in cold weather it will have no chance to get to temp, and that's bad news
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:46 AM   #74
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Should have said, in conjunction with a warmer Tstat
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:23 AM   #75
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About the only thing I didn't like about M30 swap was it's crappy MPG and how long the engine is in the engine bay
I can attest to crappy MPG's - and to having to pull the radiator to swap the cap/rotor out. But you still have access to the plugs at least. An m30 isn't about mpg's though. No one puts a m30 into a e30 and thinks "oh nice, I'll get awesome gas mileage!"
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