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Old 05-20-2018, 01:54 PM   #1
loki_
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DIY: Delete M10 IAC and cold start injector.

I've run this setup for about 60,000 miles without any issues.














$12 Z1 intake flange

$2.99 vacuum caps
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:44 AM   #2
AEdward
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Will try this but Do you have any pics of where the hose from fuel rail goes to? Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:48 AM   #3
TobyB
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I've also seen the E21 mechanical warmup regulator used...

t
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:28 PM   #4
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Will try this but Do you have any pics of where the hose from fuel rail goes to? Thanks!

you'd run one piece of fuel line from the rail to the fuel filter.
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:52 PM   #5
Pavane
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Thanks for this. How's your idle when the engine is cold and warmed up?
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:30 AM   #6
packratbimmer
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That should be fine in warmer climates, but warm up here in the north would be difficult.
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:42 PM   #7
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Thanks for this. How's your idle when the engine is cold and warmed up?


i have my cold idle set at about 950 and warm idle at about 1200. in the winter i have to bump it up maybe a 1/4 turn to account for the colder air decreased the idle.
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Old 12-12-2018, 01:16 PM   #8
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Just ordered a cover today.. mine has all sort of wierd going on.. everything tests okay, but rpm is steady at 1500.. gonna do the delete as a “test” and see if anything changes.

UPDATE: So, it seems my fuel system is set up slightly different (or I’m just being dumb).. there are 2 separate hard lines that come into the engine compartment by the driver side wheel area.. one line goes to the filter, which is then connected to the rail.. The second is routed straight to the pressure regulator.. there’s no T junction to the cold injector, it was routed directly to a second port on the rail.. I’m not sure which fuel line to connect where..

Last edited by jRonin; 12-22-2018 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:36 AM   #9
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UPDATE: So, it seems my fuel system is set up slightly different (or Iím just being dumb).. there are 2 separate hard lines that come into the engine compartment by the driver side wheel area.. one line goes to the filter, which is then connected to the rail.. The second is routed straight to the pressure regulator.. thereís no T junction to the cold injector, it was routed directly to a second port on the rail.. Iím not sure which fuel line to connect where..

Looking for some guidance on fuel line plumbing.. Iíve checked a few other posts, but havenít seen anything regarding what lines to connect where for the cold injector delete.. Gonna start a thread tomorrow if I donít find anything by then.
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:06 PM   #10
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I'm doing this now, anybody notice downsides of doing this?

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Old 04-29-2019, 07:24 PM   #11
tractionzero
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When i get my car back running I will try this ! I am so tired of all the mess on the m10 motor . My one buddies s2000 is so tidy, and my buddies supra with 2jz is super tidy as well... I just want a clean engine bay and reliable e30 :P
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:27 AM   #12
Alex18i
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How the heck do you adjust your idle with this mod ?
Pulling the accel cable a bit or what ?
I already bought the plate , but here gas aint cheap to do this :/
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:04 AM   #13
Jaxx_
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How the heck do you adjust your idle with this mod ?
Pulling the accel cable a bit or what ?
I already bought the plate , but here gas aint cheap to do this :/
there is a butterfly valve stop adjustment on the throttle body.
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Old 05-21-2019, 11:29 AM   #14
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Keep in mind that if you make this modification, you might need to play with the throttle switch as well. After you adjust idle at the throttle plate, the throttle switch will likely be off now.

If you do it: Use a 325e/325i distributor cap bolt and a tail light nut (8mm) to make a new butterfly stop screw. You will need to tweak it here and there so it will be easier with a better piece of hardware there. Put a drop of blue thread locker on the threads so it will not wander. The nut is for locking it in place
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