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Old 04-06-2019, 09:46 PM   #1
LowR3V'in
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do i need bigger master with bbk?

hey i have 5lug sleeves that use e46 m3 fronts and e39 rears.
So that's 60mm front and i think either 40/42mm rears.


my brakes kinda have an initial long soft travel until the brakes
actually bite and when they bite they bite pretty hard so it's kinda easy to lock up if not careful.



i would have to pump the pedal and then the brakes would feel normal.
firm and predictable.



the m3 uses the bigger 25mm master so i'm assuming that's the problem but idk. or does this sound like something else. i don't see other people posting about needing the bigger master with the swap so that's why i'm like


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Old 04-07-2019, 11:08 PM   #2
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I have the same on my other car. Started out with driving it on stock master, everything worked good. But after the upgrade to e32 one, I don't want to go back to the stock e30.
You might as well do it now to avoid having to bleed the brakes again.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:52 AM   #3
Massive Lee
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Yes. I suggest a bigger 25,4mm MC (1"). Most likely commonly found on the e32 750iL. You may want to remove the OEM fixed bias valve too in order to maximize rear braking.
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:47 AM   #4
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0153

ITEM 5 ? got a p/n for something to replace it with?
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:56 AM   #5
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i didn't even know that was there.

ya the front would feel like it did 99% of the braking. Fronts where covered in dust in a day the rears where clean.
redoing my exhaust today then i'll test the brakes with the e32 mc.

crazy nobody has complained about it. fkn terrible.
i would of rather stayed stock with some race pads.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:32 AM   #6
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Roughly, front brakes do 2/3 of the braking and rear brakes do 1/3. Perhaps even a bit more front biased than that for street cars with a softish suspension (more weight transfer on the front wheels under hard braking and rear wheels unloading).

Stock e30 masters are 22/19mm if I remember properly. The rear channel is 19mm and therefore gives 35% more pressure than the front. Which is why there's a fixed pressure bias valve. Front and rear channel progress linearly until 25bar is reached (around 380psi) at which point, the rear channel progresses at a slower pace than the front, resulting in less rear pressure. Just fine with stock MC as it tames the rear brakes. But if fitting same size pistons, then it fucks up the balance.



So, what to replace the fixed bias valve with? I suggest fitting an adjustable one. Perhaps set to zero reduction to start with, and then to tune it according to needs.

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Old 04-16-2019, 09:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowR3V'in View Post
crazy nobody has complained about it. fkn terrible.
ah, ah, ah. I've been telling you guys for close to 15 years Nobody listened, except perhaps for Lance.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:19 AM   #8
Todd Black 88
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Lots of racers ditch that valve, and tune rearwith pad compound
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Old 04-16-2019, 01:10 PM   #9
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thanks lee u tha man.

ya i'll get one of those valves if my car still wants to nose dive like it did with the stock master.

what master do u use with your all around kit?
http://massivebrakes.com/brake-syste...front_332x32mm
http://massivebrakes.com/brake-syste..._rear_300x32mm

also, what i notice one of the mc, i think it's the e32 one, has like 3mm of a longer throw so looks
like the stock rod is alittle short for this mc. Is that a problem?
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Old 04-16-2019, 01:18 PM   #10
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MC size doesn't depend on rotors size specifically but on if you run a front-only or a front and rear set-up. Because caliper piston sizes change depending on configs.

W/ front and rear kits. I suggest a 25,4mm MC if running a booster. Without booster, start at 19mm and see how it feels. Front caliper pistons shall be 1.625" or 1.75" while rear will be 1.125" or 1.25"

Front-only will work with stock MC because in most cases caliper pistons will be 1.25" for a stock bias (or 1.375" if a heavier engine is swapped)

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Old 04-19-2019, 02:41 PM   #11
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ok after some days of driving the e32 master has done the job.
feels good.
modulation is stock like. it doesn't nose dive anymore.

braking hard coming in hot on a long turn just sorta kinda by a butt hair locks up the inside rear.

Fronts will lock up if needed and even on a hard panic stop they will lock up
but the thing is driver front locks up before passenger side so it's super controllable

rears have much more dust on them now

So ya, it did the job might need just a slice more of rear bias. oh so little bit more.
i've tried to over heat them like the stockers
no way its doing that anymore.

going to get the rear valve for sure.
thanks for the help lee. u a gem.
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:45 PM   #12
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Glad it is working for you.
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